Last night, we learned our summit sunrise reservation for this morning was cancelled due to winter weather. We were disappointed, but appreciated getting more sleep. After awaking to loud birds, we packed up our stuff and walked to a nearby stand for açai bowls.
As we were driving up Haleakalā, we saw signs displaying, “Park Closed Until Further Notice.” We assumed they were referring to just the summit, so we continued. We passed a few more signs and lots of cars descending, but the road wasn’t closed, so we kept going. There were multiple tour companies that had driven people up the mountain so they could coast down on bicycles, but we even saw a few cyclists ascending the steep climb. About a mile from the Park Headquarters, the road was gated. John told the ranger we have cabin reservations (that we made six months ago!), but she said no one was allowed in the park. She mentioned there might be an update at 11 AM, but I wasn’t hopeful. Reluctantly, we turned around and drove back the way we had just come.
With an hour before the potential update, we drove to nearby Makawao. We had just found a second geocache when John learned the park had reopened, so we walked back to the car. The park closure signs hadn’t changed, so we anxiously repeated the drive up the mountain. We only saw a few cars driving the opposite direction, but we were still wary. Finally, we were relieved to see the gate open, but we were still unsure if we would be allowed to access the cabins.
We checked in at Park Headquarters where a ranger helped us plan our route. He suggested an alternate route that involved hitchhiking to the next visitor center. I believed no one would give us a ride, but I agreed to try. We drove to Halemau’u Trailhead and walked across the street to the “hiker pick-up.” I stuck my thumb out convinced no one would stop. The first car passed us and confirmed my assumption. But the second car pulled over! I was shocked, especially because the Jeep was transporting a family with two small children. They were listening to an audio guide about the island. The father told us the guide mentioned the hitchhiking spot and then they saw us! We were so grateful to the friendly family, especially after such a late start. They dropped us off at the Haleakalā Visitor Center before continuing to the summit.
After briefly checking out the visitor center, we finally began our hike at 1:36 PM. We descended 3.9 miles on the Keonehe’ehe’e (Sliding Sands) Trail to a flat area at the first fork. We chatted with a few other hikers before turning toward Hōlua Cabin. Another 3.6 miles through sand and gravel until we reached the cabin. I was relieved to take my pack off my hurting shoulders. It was cool to see four nēnē near the cabin, but unfortunately, that also means people have probably been feeding them. The cabin has running water, but no electricity–still an upgrade from tent camping, though. It’s no hotel, but I’m still looking forward to my camp meal and thin mattress.